InEnduringGrowStrong

Local manufacturing isn’t the goal, they’re going for grift, rug pull, collapse…

So, A1/A2 is yet another scale they invented because, why not.
A2 is supposed to have more IOPS than A1, although in benchmarks, some A1s perform better.
I wouldn’t worry too much about it tbh.

So, the SD Association is absolutely fucking insane when it comes to giving labels to literally anything.

The Steam Deck supports UHS-1 microSD cards.
That’s the name of the bus. There’salso UHS-2 and UHS-3, but they’re backwards compatible with UHS-1, so that’s whatever.

Speeds…
Some cards used speed “classes”, like Class 10…
There’s also U1 or U3 speeds (which is a speed rating independent of the bus. (A U3 cards is probably a UHS-1 card.
Some have a speed rated with a V, like V10, V30, etc.
They often have multiple labels too.
These can all be used to label the speed of a UHS-1 card:
UHS Speed Class

• U1: 10 MB/s minimum write speed.
• U3: 30 MB/s minimum write speed.

Video Speed Class

• V6: 6 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V10: 10 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V30: 30 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V60: 60 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V90: 90 MB/s minimum write speed.

Class 10

• Class 10: 10 MB/s minimum write speed (legacy).

Anyway, U3 is basically the same as a V30.
U3/V30 would be the minimum I’d get for the Deck. Price being the deciding factor for the rest.
I don’t really care if the card ever fails, so brand was (mostly) irrelevant in my choice.

Fuck modern appliances.
I’m lucky enough to have bought both washer/dryer almost 20 years ago. Both of 'em for $600 at Future Shop, which now ironically only exists in the past.

I never really think about these appliances, which is the nice part that I realky love about them.
They don’t remind me they exist with beeps or phone notifications. They just do their thing.
Anyway, the washer is an old, cheap top loader, that can also periodically be used to tamp the soil beneath your foundation to make sure your house is stable. You activate that feature by bunching the bed sheets all wrong on the same side of the drum.
That’s a nice feature that’s been deprecated in newer models.
It’s an overall easy model to repair because it’s mostly just an oversized salad spinner with 2 water valves and a pump.
The dryer is like the quiet nephew that you like but never hear much about, nothing much to say really, but it works.

Anyway.
When the temperature dial on the washer broke 15 years ago, there was no way I was paying $90 to buy some complicated part that would break again.
So I just removed the knob and twisted the stranded wires to a dumb switch that you could reach by putting your finger in the knob hole as a proof of concept, left for the cold valve, right for hot. Sketchy? Sure. Warm? I don’t know? Use a bit of both, or whatever.
I never even got around to actually solder it, which is weird because I’ve soldered lots of electronics. It worked, I guess I forgot, so whatever.

Until it stopped working a few months ago, having finally shaken itself loose and I opened it up again, only then realizing I didn’t solder it way back then. Oops.
This time, I ordered a proper 3 position rotary switch, which I did solder. Left for the cold valve, right for the hot valve, and amazingly: middle for both, which is how warm water is made.
I also 3d printed a knob to fit the new switch.
Fancy right? but my last repair is still nowhere near as complicated as the original broken part was and we still only ever use the cold water setting.

Now, it turns out the reason the original part is complicated and expensive is that in normal washers, the temperature selection thingy only ever changes the washing temperature and not the rinsing temperature.
This means which valve needs to open has to change depending on where it is in the wash cycle, thus the more complicated part.

Anyway, technically, my washer now has more features than before it broke in the sense that we could theoretically now rinse with hot or warm water, which y’all plebs probably can’t. Not that we ever use anything but the cold setting, but we could and you can’t.

The dryer? It has just kept working.
Now and then we’d feed it something wrong like a bunch of loose balls from an old bearing that was sitting in a pant pocket or a set of lockpicks or whatever and I take the back panel apart to retrieve the stuff stuck in the back elbow somewhere. When that happens, I also vacuum the lint that is stuck in this quantum realm of not being caught in the lint filter, but also not expelled out, just caught in that same hungry void elbow.

Both have no music, no tunes, no beeps, no capacitive buttons that you don’t quite know if you pressed or not, no lockout, although there’s a safety switch that stops the drum from turning if you open the lid. No wifi, no app, no mold.
There’s no soap dispenser, although I do have a peristaltic pump and tubing so I could easily enough just drop that in a jug of liquid detergent and time how much to use… but… we prefer powder detergent anyway because shipping water around is just dumb when I can get the same shit in concentrated powder and add water myself, which washing machines conveniently already do.
A bucket of the stuff lasts several years too.

They’re old and all that, but these things keep on doing what they’re made for while friends have gone through 3-4 sets in the same time line.

Fuck modern appliances.

Depends on the game a lot.
Sometimes it’s just ABXY buttons where I don’t wanna move my thumb off the right joystick.
Sometimes, one paddle activates a layer shift to have more mappings.
Like if a game has more controls than you could fit, layers can help extend the possibilities and paddles area decent way of activating them.
If a game is heavy on QTEs, like spam X really fast to do something, I might just map a paddle to enable a layer shift that turbo spams the other button.

What’s wrong about Battlefield 3?

Interesting.
I’m not doing anything special that wasn’t in one of the popular tutorials and I thought that’s how it was supposed to work, although it might very well be a “bug” how it behaves right now.

I don’t know enough about this, but the drivers are blacklisted on the host at boot, yet the console is still displayed through the GPU’s HDMI at that time which might depend on the specific GPU (a vega64 in my case).

The host doesn’t have a graphical desktop environment, just the shell.

I passthrough a GPU (no iGPU on this mobo).
It only hijacks the GPU when I start the VM, for which I haven’t configured autostart.
Before the VM is started it’s showing the host prompt. It doesn’t return to the prompt if the VM is shutdown or crashed, but a reboot would, hence not autostarting that VM.
If it got borked too much, putting a temporary GPU might be easier.

Also, don’t break your ssh.
Pretty easy with PKI auth.

“eh, that’s a problem for future me”, sais previous me, the asshole.

This, but bottom right also includes past me.

I’d never do it, but… break all the stuff.
It only ever happens in these tiny stores with a bunch of ornaments and shit.
Shelves and shelves packed with knickknacks and other fragile whatnots where you risk toppling half the store if you turned around too fast…

It’s been so long I don’t even remember playing it.

This is also how I became an Internet plumber.

Updated my journal

Post:

Skyrim lead designer Bruce Nesmith explains why Bethesda switching to Unreal may not be the upgrade fans think it would be.

You: [several missing steps] … Biden

WTF does Biden have anything to do with that

I assume you commented in the wrong post?

Duck with duck shoes.
Thanks, I feel closure

Indeed

Edit the sudoers file.

## user is allowed to execute halt and reboot 
whateverusername ALL=NOPASSWD: /sbin/halt, sbin/reboot, /sbin/poweroff

“Batshit crazy fearmongering peddler yells at clouds.”